Friday, July 29, 2011

Zara Phillips: Another Tale of Tiaras

I do apologize for my month long absence. I was under the mistaken conclusion that my schedule would miraculously clear once the auction season drew to a close but alas I have been busier than ever....neglecting you kind readers. I am currently on the road but had to stop to post about Zara Phillips' wedding that is taking place tomorrow! Miss Phillips is Queen Elizabeth II's eldest granddaughter and the only daughter of Princess Anne and Captain Mark Phillips. Zara's impending nuptials have been referred to as "the other Royal wedding" after the global phenomenon that was William and Catherine's ceremony on April 29th. I would expect that Zara's wedding to rugby player Mark Tindall should be a low-key affair. Princess Anne's desire for privacy was definitely passed on to her similarly athletic daughter. Mark Phillips never accepted a title from the Queen and it is reported that Princess Anne refused honorary titles for for her children so they could have a more normal life away from public scrutiny. Thus Zara and her brother Peter are the Queen's only grandchildren without titles. This apparent informality is most evidenced by the happy couple's engagement photo.
With this level of comfort one wonders if the sporty Zara will opt for a tiara at all. I for one hope she does. She will likely not have as many options open to her as Kate but below find my short list of the strong contenders:
1. Princess Anne's Festoon Tiara

This could very well be the likely bet as is a romantic and low profile belle epoch stunner. The tiara is the personal property of Princess Anne so the loan would be quite simple. It was presented to Princess Anne by the World Wide Shipping Group in 1973, the year of her marriage. My only caveat would be that Princess Anne already loaned the festoon to her son Peter's bride, Autumn Kelly, on the event of their marriage in May of 2008. Since that was in the fairly recent past and was highly publicized I do hope she opts for another piece....but I digress.
2. Princess Andrew of Greece's Meander Tiara

This classically inspired bandeau tiara is also the personal property of Princess Anne making Zara's access as easy as the festoon. The overall look is a bit severe but Anne has carried it off successfully throughout the years. The tiara was a wedding present from Prince Phillip's mother, Princess Andrew of Greece and Denmark, to the future Queen Elizabeth II. And while the Greek key and palmette motifs are a distinct nod to Prince Phillip's Hellenic line, the Queen never wore it publicly. It was subsequently given to Princess Anne in 1972, a year prior to her engagement and subsequent marriage. Other royal watcher's feel that this would be a great choice, steeped in family history but I am not so convinced due to its stark geometry. It may however be the default since the festoon was so recently trotted out at a royal wedding.

3. Fringe Tiara

Historically this would be a strong choice. It was created in 1919 using diamonds that had been part of a tiara/necklace given by Queen Victoria to Queen Mary on the occasion of her marriage in 1893. Queen Mary gave it to the Queen Mother when she ascended the throne in 1937. The Queen Mother lent it to both her daughter Princess Elizabeth and granddaughter Princess Anne on their respective wedding days. It may be a bit severe in design but it is definitely no stranger to a royal wedding. For me, it would be very fitting Zara to wear her mother's and grandmother's wedding tiara but as you can tell I have a flair for nostalgia. This would however require a loan from the Queen which shouldn't be out of the question as she most recently loaned Catherine the Cartier Halo Tiara for her wedding to Prince William.

Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Anne wearing the Fringe on their respective wedding days.

As the big day is tomorrow we have precious little time to make broader guesses. If you wish to torture yourself you can always refer to Catherine's tiara list that I obsessed over for countless months. The couple is wedding at Canongate Kirk in Edinburgh but the event will not be televised so we will have to wait for the stills to hit the internet. I wait with baited breath!

UPDATE:
Well the big event has come and gone and as I suspected Zara wore option 2, the Meander tiara. While it is a bit stiff she wore it well and the overall look was beautiful.


Saturday, June 18, 2011

Unusual Tiffany Clock Sells at Bonhams

Despite a few bright spots, for the most part the June design auctions were a pretty standard affair. Bonhams however presented a delightfully odd yet art historically interesting clock. I have gushed in the past about Tiffany Studios lamps and glass but I have also tried to enlighten my readers on the less commercially popular areas of the firm's production. I present this unique Tiffany & Co. carved mahogany and enameled hall clock.
Now I admit it is a bit quirky but it was produced in 1887 so the decorative vocabulary is straddling a ménage à trois of aesthetic movement, beaux arts and budding art nouveau sensibilities. While it wouldn't qualify as a "hot mess" in todays terms, it definitely has a lot going on. This is understandable as it was made to be a tour de force showpiece likely destined for a world exposition. While people are very familiar with the glass production, most are not aware that Tiffany Studios had a substantial furniture workshop and an enameling division...both seen at work on this piece.

The teardrop face is exquisitely enameled and the resulting design falls somewhere between Anglo-Japanese and art nouveau and as the lot footnote indicates it was likely the handiwork of Paulding Farnham, Tiffany's design director who had a keen interest in the firm's enamel workshop.
The waves and cascades of the case are virtuosic and are only limited by the constraints of the rather traditional silhouette of a conventional tall-case clock. While it is not everyone's taste it achieved $91,500 blasting past its pre-sale estimate of $25,000-35,000. The bold price comes down to rarity...where else are you going to find a Tiffany clock of this stature? But if you are interested in Tiffany Studios furniture pieces, they can be had at more modest levels.
This rather traditional gate-leg table was produced in the heyday of Tiffany Studios and can be purchased from M. S. Rau Antiques for the asking price of $29,850. But don't fret dear readers if you watch the auctions models such as these appear at more realistic estimates of $2000-3000.
Detail of the Tiffany brand.
This finely carved Queen Anne style stunner was sold at Burchard Galleries last fall for a reasonable $400.
Detail of brand.
This pair of baroque style hall chairs surfaced at Rago Arts and Auction Center in the summer of 2005 and brought a tidy $4250 against a $5000-7000 estimate. They are similarly branded as the others.
This Italian rococo style console table forms part of an extensive Tiffany Studios "Royal Venetian" bedroom suite that Bonhams offered in the summer of 2010 at an estimate of $10,000-15,000 but it failed to find a buyer... perhaps it was too much of a "look" but lets not digress.
This Tiffany Studios mahogany what-not was sold by Treadway Gallery in December of 2007 for $2500. As you can see, when it comes to Tiffany there is something at every level spanning a broad range of tastes.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Madonna Wears the Duchess of Windsor's Cartier Bracelet?


Just a quick post. I must say with all the advising at the end of the auction season I can barely keep up with current events. If it were not for dinner parties I don't think I would ever get a sufficient dose of pop culture. For it was a dear friend that gave me this little tidbit over the weekend. It appears that when Madonna paid tribute to Oprah Winfrey last month she may have been wearing the Duchess of Windsor's storied Cartier cross bracelet.
The images from the March 17th taping are compelling especially given her directorial debut in the forthcoming W.E. a modern retelling of the love affair between the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Madonna has a very soft spot for American divorcee Wallis Simpson, obviously as they are both women of style who courted controversy throughout their lives and both very similarly obsessed with crafting their public image.
Detail of engravings.

The fantastic jewel sold last fall at Sotheby's London for £601,250 and was a very personal piece for the Duchess, comprised of eight gem set crosses (one platinum) on a platinum and diamond bracelet. Each cross was engraved with a special date in the life of the couple and it was worn on their wedding day... the beginning of their luxurious life in exile.
Madonna was rumored to have purchased the Duchess' Cartier Panther bracelet that fetched £4.5 million but it has yet to surface publicly so it is anyone's guess. The cross bracelet is a far better fit as it was much more personal to the couple marking their romance over the years and it seamlessly meshes with Madonna's ever evolving crucifix laden personal style. Until Madonna confirms, we are left to wait...perhaps only until the film's premiere at the Venice Film Festival at the end of August.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Drian "Jazz" Screen at Christie's

I have spent the past few days pouring over the June design sales and I was delighted to see that another "old friend" has emerged on the auction block. Now this is not something I have personally handled before but it is an object of great reputation and I am delighted that I will be able to see it in the flesh very soon. I present you with the "Jazz" screen comprised of reverse painted mirror panels by French artist Etienne Drian, currently on the block at Christie's.
For those not in the know, Drian was born Etienne Adrien in 1890 in Bugneville, France and emerged as one of the preeminent fashion illustrators of the dress reform era. It was later in the 1920s and 30s that he expanded his repertoire to include portraiture, murals and decorative arts.

This image shows Drian in his studio circa 1930 with American actress Gilda Gray who popularized the "Shimmy" dance craze. Note the mirrored screen panels in the background awaiting completion. The "Jazz"screen originally decorated the music room of Mrs. Bradford Norman's apartment at the fabled River House which was published in Arts & Decoration (May 1933).

As you can see the screen held court along one wall and and provided an important backdrop for Mrs. Norman's concerts. The image below from Vogue (October 1933) shows the screen again as Mrs. Norman plays for Mrs. Averell Harriman, Mr. Edward McIlvan Jr. and Mr. John Kennedy.

As you follow the Christie's provenance for the screen the next time it emerges is in the collection of New York fashion designer John Moore. Fortunately it was photographed in his apartment for a Life magazine piece in May of 1963.

It seems that Mr. Moore used the screen in much the same manner as Mrs. Norman, an elegant backdrop amidst a sea of cream tones, zebra hide and a lacquered piano. The screen then passed to New York antiques dealer/designer Christopher Chodoff and was photographed in his home for Architectural Digest (May/June 1977).

Mr. Chodoff's 1990 obituary noted that his antiques business opened in Manhattan in the early 1950s and that he was one of the first dealers to introduce modernist masterworks by Eileen Gray, Diego Giacometti and Jean-Michael Frank to an unsuspecting post-war American clientele. His companion at the time of his death was noted as a Mr. Maury Green and it is likely that the screen remained with him until now.

While the provenance is listed with confidence the lot essay backs away from it slightly noting that it was "likely from the New York apartment of Mrs. Bradford Norman" which is slightly annoying as it was definitely hers. There was possibly some reason for concern as the "Jazz" screen has a slightly more famous sister (below) that was executed for the ballroom/theatre of the Maharaja of Indore's art deco Manik Bagh palace. Images of the two have been interchanged for years but they vary slightly in the fine details. If you study them closely you can sort it out.

Indore "Jazz" Screen

(L) Norman "Jazz" Screen,detail (R)Indore "Jazz" Screen,detail

As you can see from the details above the join cuts through the tuba player's arm in two distinctly different places. The example at Christie's is definitely the "Jazz" screen from Mrs. Norman's apartment... no question about it. What has always struck me about the band depicted in the screen is that the players are highly individualized and not the typical exotic derogatory stereotypes of the Jazz Age. I always felt that the figures had to be based on real people and thankfully the experts at Christie's were able to unravel part of the mystery.

It appears that the drummer in the screen is directly copied from a Berenice Abbot photograph of jazz musician Buddy Gilmore. After World War I, Gilmore played the capitals of Europe and had lengthy stints at Parisian venues such as La Revue Négre. It seems fairly evident that Drian collected and composited a number of jazz musician portraits for his finished work. Further research will need to be done identify the rest of the players... perhaps for another post!

On a side note, it appears that Mrs. Bradford Norman was not the only Drian client at the River House, enter British lumber heiress Audrey Evelyn James... (if you are not familiar with the River House apartments please read Michael Henry Adams' series for the Huffington Post). The vivacious Audrey James was one of the "bright young things" in London society and was a favorite of the Prince of Wales. It was during her second marriage to department store magnate Marshall Field III that she resided at the River House and was published in Vogue (April 1934) with her Drian portrait screen as a backdrop.

Her screen traveled to London after her divorce from Field and it was photographed by Country Life at her residence "The Holme" in Regent's Park around 1938.

Luckily for us this art deco stunner survived and was sold at Christie's from the Estate of fashion PR legend Eleanor Lambert in 2004.
I remember seeing it at the sale preview and it was quite distressed but it still achieved nearly $22,000. But this lovely screen was not Mrs. Field's only Drian commission. It seems that she also hired Drian in 1932 to spruce-up her River House dining room with mirror murals much like the London music room of her friend Sir Philip Sassoon. Unfortunately no image survives but we know from the period press that the "mirrors are painted [with] the most wondrous collection of our feathered friends." It leaves the imagination to wonder....but fortunately for us this was an oft repeated Drian theme.
I present the mirrored dining room that Drian executed for couturier Edward Molyneux. This gives us a pretty clear indication of how the Field's dining room likely appeared. While ephemeral, some of Drian's murals were carefully dismantled and sold at auction so we thankfully have a sense of what they were like in person.
These are two of eighteen panels from the entrance foyer of Mrs. Randolph Hearst's residence at 300 Park Avenue executed by Drian between 1927-1928. Screens are easier to sell than sections of interior elements, Sotheby's sold this group in 2004 for a dismal $2700. What a steal! Even rarer are Drian's smaller decorative works...
This unusual pair of Drian side tables were sold by Sotheby's from the collection of Karl Lagerfeld for a whopping €33,275. While rare, this model is by no means unique as evidenced by this example presently for sale at the New York gallery of Alan Moss.

I seem to remember that dear Alan had a pair, perhaps one was sold...but I digress. If you are interested you can purchase it here.
This unusual cabinet mounted with Drian panels surfaced at Tajan Paris in 2007 and despite its rather clunky presence it achieved €33,458. If you missed it, do not worry, it is now in the capable hands of Parisian art deco expert Felix Marcilhac and can be purchased here.
Last but not least is this lovely still life/mirror from the estate of fashion designer Bill Blass. These surface from time to time and can usually be had at auction for less than $5000 depending on their size. But it was likely the Blass provenance that led this example to sell for nearly $7000 at Sotheby's in 2005.

I did not intend for this post to be so encompassing but Drian is close to my heart. The "Jazz" screen will hit the block at Christie's on June 16th at an estimate of $100,000-150,000. We shall see how it goes, that price seems a bit steep given the form and its fragility. If it is an amazing success I am sure we will see the other "Jazz" screen re-emerge within short order. Until then dear readers...we wait.

UPDATE: The screen sold this morning just within estimate at $110,500. I was a bit concerned it would not after I saw the piece in person as the condition was rather rough, finely painted but flaking and distressed. Expect to see other Drian pieces come out of the woodwork....one success tends to beget speculation in the art market.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Royal Tiara On The Block At Sotheby's

I spent the latter part of the afternoon scouring the major auction house websites to find the highly anticipated June design sales. Unfortunately they will not drop until next week, but my inquiries did not leave me empty handed. Thankfully, it was on Sotheby's main page I came across this lovely emerald laden stunner.
I must admit I was hesitant to write about another royal jewel so quickly after my coverage of the recent royal wedding. But I figured you may be up for a bit of sparkle this weekend. Sotheby's describes this aristocratic diadem as "A Magnificent and Rare Emerald and Diamond Tiara, Formerly in the Collection of Princess Katharina Henckel Von Donnersmarck, Circa 1900." The base of the tiara is of a lovely foliate design and par four the course as far as high-end Belle Epoque jewels go. However, it is the approximately 500 carats of polished emeralds comprising 11 pear shaped spikes that set it apart from the pack.
The catalogue goes to great, yet measured, lengths to assert that the emeralds
probably/ possibly/ perchance belonged to Empress Eugenie of France from a group of 25 such polished emerald drops sold from her personal collection in 1872. Historical layering such as this adds to the mystique and hopefully the end result but I am a stickler for hard facts and always find it a bit too fluffy when dealing with a masterwork that can really sand on its own, but hey that's just me. What is certain is that the emeralds are of Colombian origin and are polished in the Indian tradition, likely in the 17th or 18th century. While the overall effect is striking I have always found the mixing of globular cabochon stones and brilliant cut diamonds to be a tricky affair....lest they look like shiny gum balls wed to a refined base. The present lot is just on the cusp of looking top-heavy, but only just. Queen Elizabeth's Grand Duchess Vladimir tiara utilizing the Cambridge emeralds is a bit more successful but who is counting really....well I guess I am since it is one of my favorites from her collection.
Queen Elizabeth's Grand Duchess Vladimir Tiara

The catalogue also asserts that the tiara is (yet again) "possibly" the most important to appear at auction in 30 years (since it was last sold by the heirs of Princess Katharina Henckel Von Donnersmarck via Sotheby's Zurich in 1979). This glosses over Christie's great success selling the fabled Portland tiara just last December and the Poltimore tiara that they sold from the Estate of Princess Margaret in 2006.
The Poltimore Tiara Sold Christie's 13 June 2006 ($1,7o4,576)

The Portland Tiara Sold Christie's 1 December 2010 ($1,188,239)

Granted, the Donnersmarck tiara with its 11 large emeralds may pack more of a punch in intrinsic value, but the importance of the provenance is debatable when compared to the Portland or the Poltimore. That said, I wish Sotheby's well as the estimate range is a stellar $5.3-10.6 million. We will have to wait until next week to see where it ultimately lands. I leave you with this press image which gives you a better sense of the tiara's scale and the greater distance obscures the natural imperfections in the in the emeralds which can be distracting when viewed too closely.

UPDATE: The tiara sold on May 17th for an astounding $12.7 million becoming the most expensive tiara ever sold...