Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Last year when I heard the shocking news about the death of fashion genius Alexander McQueen I wrote the requisite dismayed blog entry. In that post I hopothesized about the retrospective that would be held in his honor at some point in the future....details were announced today.

Dress from the fall/winter 2010 collection. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty will run at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute from 4 May-31 July 2011. A preview was held in London today at the Ritz Hotel to coincide with London fashion week. Anna Wintour and Samantha Cameron were in attendance for the preview and press conference.

Ritz Preview. Photo: Yui Mok/Press Association, via Associated Press

The retrospective at the Met will include some 100 works covering the designer's astounding 19 year career. The catalogue is available on pre-order but will not be released until 31 May 2011. I leave you with these juicy and haunting images from the publication and a BBC interview with Anna Wintour.

Gown, Widows of Culloden. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Gown from the Voss Collection. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Ensemble, Its a Jungle Out There. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress, Horn of Plenty. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Ensemble, Plato's Atlantis. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Ensemble from the Voss Collection. Photo: Solve Sundsbo/The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Revolutionary Road

When the call for change in Egypt erupted some weeks ago I was of two distinct minds, at once hopeful for much needed political change and fearful for the treasures within this culturally rich nation. Over the weekend Dr. Zahi Hawass, Secretary General of Egypt's Supreme Council of Antiquities, revealed that Cairo's Egyptian Museum, in fact, sustained greater losses than initially reported. Thankfully it was nothing on the level seen in Iraq after Saddam Hussain was deposed, but the reality still stings. Hawass listed the eight missing works on his website. While looking them over my heart sank when I saw the statue of King Tutankhamen with a harpoon.

According to Hawass' report the statue is now lost from the waist up. I can only hypothesize that the thieves, thinking it was solid gold, snatched at it only to snap the gilt wood figure in half. Of all the statues recovered from the legendary tomb of the boy king this 29 1/2 inch masterwork is considered to be the most harmonious. It is truly iconic. I hope the upper section is recovered and restored soon. See the complete list of thefts here.

Turkish Delight

Feeling restless yesterday I made the trek out the Brooklyn Museum to spend the afternoon gazing at art with an old friend. I shamefully must admit that it had been the better part of five years since I made the sojourn to this renowned institution. While winding through the decorative arts galleries I was pleasantly confronted by a particular old favorite. I present the Moorish smoking room from the John D. Rockefeller house formerly at 4 West 54 Street in New york city (currently the site of the MOMA sculpture garden).

Photo: Brooklyn Museum

This sumptuous room was actually decorated in 1881 when the home was owned by Virginia native Arabella Duval Worsham. In 1884 Arabella married Collis P. Huntington and sold her home fully furnished to John D. Rockefeller. The home was changed very little and stayed virtually intact until his death in 1937 when it was subsequently razed.

Photo: Brooklyn Museum

The room reflects the 1870s/80s interest in Orientalist art and the "exotic" decorative vocabularies of the Near and Far East. Moorish/Turkish smoking rooms were largely the domain of men and were a room to retire to and smoke, which at the time was still a rather exotic habit. While the overall result falls somewhere between Victorian opulence and pastiche, the designer had first-hand knowledge of Islamic decorative motifs and it rings true in the details. As an aside, it has been long accepted that the room was produced by the firm of Pottier and Stymus but recent scholarship has shown other hands may have been at work.

Photo: Wiki Commons

Looking at the room again after so many years I honed in on the stylized cypress motif on the back of the ebonized door. It immediately reminded me of another important commission out on Long Island. I present the fountain court from Louis C. Tiffany's country home, Laurelton Hall.

Photo: Old Long Island

From the style and placement of the interior fountain and the three stylized niches in the distance it is clear that Tiffany was looking to the Alhambra fortress or other similar icons of Arabic design.

Photo: Old Long Island

It is the similar cypress tree stenciling along the lower level of the court that stuck-out in my mind when viewing the Rockefeller smoking room.

(L) Photo: Mark Twain House and Museum. (R) Photo: Sfrajan via Flickr

The catalogue for the Laurelton Hall exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art points out that Laurelton's cypress stenciling (at left) closely copied the wall tiles (at right) from the Harem in Istanbul's famed Topkapi Palace. In Near Eastern cultures the cypress is symbolic of the universe and as an evergreen it represents immortality. This careful adherence to detail is compelling and while the overall desire was to create a luxurious fantasy there was some effort made to "get it right". Some ventured further to take decorative veracity to a whole new level.

Photo: English Heritage

Enter the Moorish smoking room from Rhinefield House, Brockenhurst, England. This room was devised in the late 19th century by the Lady of the house, Mrs. Mabel Walker-Munro, as a gift for her husband. Evidently the couple had honeymooned in Spain and were quite taken with the Alhambra Palace in Granada. Mrs. Walker-Munro enlisted her architect to hire Moorish artisans to craft the burnished copper panels and import onyx and tiles from Persia and other parts of the Arab world. The result is a stunning microcosm of Islamic design tenents and is affectionately referred to today as the "Alhambra" room. The manor house is now a hotel and this former smoking room is an opulent private dining room

Photo: Rhinefield Apartments

Photo: Kaya Olivia Campbell

Photo: Amy Wass Photography

Photo: Amy Wass Photography

Again in the stained glass window we see the enduring cypress motif. This space is truly jewel-like and a decadently rare survival.

Google Art Project: Accidentally Good For Decorative Art Enthusiasts

The current unrest in Egypt has rightfully dominated the media outlets but almost caused me to miss the launch of Google Art Project. In a nutshell, over an 18 month period Google has used its "Street View" technology from Google Maps to shoot individual galleries within 17 top museums and institutions to allow virtual tours. 1061 artworks were selected to be shot in greater detail but sadly they are all fine art. Additionally, each institution selected one painting to be shot in an astounding 7 billion pixel resolution. While paintings have always been the pinnacle in the hierarchy of the arts, as you navigate through the various museums you can also peruse the decorative art pieces that contextualize some galleries. I highly encourage you to click through these institutions to find old furniture friends....and make some new ones.

The Fragonard room at the Frick Collection with its amazing French furniture and Sevres porcelain.

Marie Antoinette's Chamber at the Palace of Versailles. Versailles is an interesting case as you are allowed to click beyond the Hall of Mirrors and out into the gardens. But alas, you cannot navigate your way to the Petit Trianon or the Queen's farm folly, the Petit Hameau. Perhaps there will be an update.

Greek red-figure vases from the first floor of Russia's Hermitage State Museum.

The Robert Adam designed dining room from Lansdowne House now in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. In addition to European Paintings, the Met saw fit to include Medieval Art, part of European Sculpture and Decorative Art, the American Wing, and African Art.

The navigation is a bit tricky and sometimes you pass through walls accidentally into other rooms. Also I got a bit lost in the garden at Versailles and found it hard to navigate back to the chateau....but is that really such a bad thing? Enjoy!

Editor's Choice: The 57th Annual Winter Antiques Show

I do apologize dear readers for the long gap, but again advising has robbed me of time to dedicate to you. That said, over the weekend I had a chance to take-in the 57th Annual Winter Antiques Show at the 7th Regiment Armory. I must say that the robust number of vendors with their diverse goods made me feel that we are indeed turning the corner away from a chilled luxury market. Here is a glimpse of a few things that caught my eye.

These Russian enameled vessels in the booth of A La Vielle Russie were truly stunning and hard to capture in a photograph. The enamel is not backed with metal so they are translucent like drinking out of stained glass windows...if you will. However, the booth also contained a display of Faberge masterworks, one of which truly enticed me.

Some may accuse me of having a taste for the macabre but this serpent-form cane handle is exquisite. It was executed by Faberge's master workman Michel Perchin in smokey quartz, gold and diamonds around 1900. It completely manifests the fin-de-siecle feeling with its heightened interest in symbolism and a flirtation with the occult. It was hauntingly naturalistic, a true masterwork.

This fantastic oddity was nestled in the booth of Aronson Antiquaire amidst an ocean of Delftware garnitures and plaques. While this figure of Atlas looks slightly clumsy to the modern eye one must remember that it was created out of glazed earthenware in 1710. It is amazing that it even survives at all. The dealer noted that this example is one of only three known which would explain the $72,000 price tag.

The Fine Arts Society of London brought this arts and crafts gem along with a display filled with works by Godwin, Pugin, Mackintosh, and Liberty. The table in question was designed by Charles Edward Horton and executed by Lamb of Manchester in 1886. This inlaid-rosewood beauty is very unusual as it has fluid curving lines that show a slant toward organic art nouveau. It almost looks as if it would tip-toe away when no one was looking. The dealer is asking $38,000.

This Phillip Lloyd Powell and Paul Evans walnut, metal and glass wall sculpture was presented in the booth of Lost City Arts. It is not my favorite example of work by Powell and Evans but it is a work you cannot forget. I remember that it was offered at Sotheby's twice and ultimately failed to sell in March of 2009 at an estimate of $20,000-30,000. I always encourage clients to take the time to research and purchase at auction. The work is currently priced at $85,000. The booth also contained the stunning Bertoia sculpture from the Robert Isabell estate that I profiled last year.

I have not always been an adamant fan of folk art but I have always been intrigued by the recontextualization of a "found object" within a modern setting. This leaping stag weathervane in the booth of Giampietro really caught my eye because it was at once graphic and yet sculptural. Perhaps it is the stark gallery presentation, but the work has a dynamism that demands attention. The weathervane is attributed to Cushing & White of Watham, Massachusetts and dates to 1880. Giampietro is asking $45,000.

Just when you think you know a subject completely something comes along to reignite your curiosity. This arts and crafts easy chair offered in the booth of Associated Artists, LLC is apparently the work of Tiffany Studios (and priced at $75,000). While most are familiar with the lamps and windows of Tiffany Studios, it has only been in the last two decades that more focus has shifted to their furniture production. Associated Artists always does a great job with their presentation as evidenced by the printed scrim behind the chair showing the model in a 19th century engraving. It was a great touch. The booth included two other monumental chairs attributed to Tiffany Studios and an imposing aesthetic movement cabinet by Herter Brothers.

This last object was nestled in the booth of the incomparable Maison Gerard . Now this Louis XVI style carved gilt wood wall-light may appear traditional but it is the work of one of my art deco favorites, Armand-Albert Rateau. Most are familiar with Rateau's multi-million dollar works in bronze but his repertoire also included carved furnishings in more staid 18th century styles. This wall-light is one of a pair that came out of a Greek shipping tycoon's Paris apartment and are of imposing scale (nearly three feet tall).

According to those working the floor the fair has been robustly attended and many booths were fortunate enough to have red "sold" dots next to a few of their pieces. This bodes well for the market as we move further and further from the bust of 2008.

Auction Trophies: Jeanne Lanvin and Armand Rateau

I know I have waxed poetic in the past about the decadent interiors and designs by Armand Albert Rateau (if you missed out, read it here). In a previous post I covered the Eileen Gray chair that is currently on the block in the Christie's Delorenzo sale. Well Delorenzo had some Rateau masterworks up his sleeve including a rare "Fish" chair and a pair of sculptural torcheres which will definitely make millions. Well nestled in their main 20th Century Design Sale are two Rateau pieces that were owned by Lanvin herself. Enter the "Butterfly" sconce:


Photo: Christie's

This unusual wrought iron and rock crystal sconce takes the form of Lanvin's signature butterfly motif and seems a steal at $15,000-20,000. From the provenance it appears that the sconce was installed in Lanvin's country house outside Paris and comes directly from her descendants, very cool. There is also a typically Rateau carved wood mirror with a grape motif bearing the same provenance. For a serious Rateau collector these museum quality masterworks have the added bonus of being from his #1 client and never before being on the market. Perfection!

UPDATE:

The charming butterfly blasted through its estimate achieving $92,500!

A Tale of Tiara's: What will the Queen bestow upon Kate Middleton?

Since the Royal engagement was announced a few weeks ago I, like many royal watchers, have wondered about the details of the forthcoming nuptials. More specifically, what diadem will the Queen select for our Miss Middleton? I have devoured my jewelry history books, consulted the royal forums and message boards and have come up with the following possibilities. The list is arranged in order of best to worst choice, in my own opinion naturally.

1. The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara

Ok, this is by far the most fitting. Delicate and light, absolutely befitting a youthful bride. The tiara was originally given to the future Queen Mary (Queen Elizabeth's Grandmother) for her wedding in 1893. The tiara was purchased by a committee that raised money from the girls of Great Britain and Ireland, hence the name. It is one of Queen Elizabeth's favorites as it has high impact and is reportedly very lightweight and versatile. It is not likely that the Queen will part with it...sigh.

2. The Grand Duchess Vladimir Tiara

While this may be a slightly severe choice the loops and pearl drops of the neoclassical style stunner make it a contender in my book. Commissioned by the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia in 1890, the tiara consists of fifteen interlaced diamond circles each centered by a swinging teardrop pearl. After the Bolshevik Revolution the Grand Duchess and her jewels narrowly made it out of the country. When the Duchess died in 1920 the tiara passed to her daughter Helen who was by then Princess Nicholas of Greece. In 1921 Princess Nicholas sold the tiara to Queen Mary and it has been with the Windsors ever since, passing to Queen Elizabeth in 1953. It is a perennial favorite and the pearls can also be changed out with emerald drops (Queen Mary devised this with the remaining unmounted Cambridge emeralds). It is sometimes seen without any drops....what a versatile piece!

3. The Strathmore Rose Tiara

Now this is a more romantic choice and I must say it was off my radar as it has not been seen in some time. It was given to the late Queen Mother by her parents upon the occasion of her marriage to Prince Albert on April 26, 1923. While her father was a Peer, Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon was legally a commoner. Wouldn't that be a touching twist of fate if this is the one that is selected especially since Kate and William have chosen April 29th as their own wedding day.

4. Fringe Tiara

Historically this would be a strong choice. It was created in 1919 using diamonds that had been part of a tiara/necklace given by Queen Victoria to Queen Mary on the occasion of her marriage in 1893. Queen Mary gave it to the Queen Mother when she ascended the throne in 1937. The Queen Mother lent it to both her daughter Princess Elizabeth and granddaughter Princess Anne on their respective wedding days. It may be a bit severe in design but it is definitely no stranger to a royal wedding.

5. The County of Surrey Tiara

This is another tiara that was definitely not in my sights since it hasn't been seen publicly in a century (since Queen Mary was the Princess Of Wales). Stylistically it falls between the sweetness of Girls of Great Britain and Ireland and the spiked severity of the Fringe. The tiara was a gift to Queen Mary from the people of the County of Surrey upon the occasion of her marriage in 1893.

6. The Queen Mother's Scroll Tiara.

What this tiara lacks in provenance it makes up for in style. The rolling cascade-like scrolls converge forming a delicate focal point surmounted by a large brilliant diamond. It was one of a handful of tiaras that the Queen Mother wore after she was married but before she ascended the throne in 1937. Over the years it was lent to both Princess Margaret and Princess Anne. There is a playful air of youth about it and its scale is far from overbearing.

7. Duchess of Teck Rose and Crescent Tiara

While this is not the most aesthetically pleasing or romantic choice it is steeped in history. This gem entered the Windsor hoard via Queen Mary's family. It belonged to Mary's mother, Princess Adelaide of Cambridge, Duchess of Teck. Princess Adelaide had a passion for jewelry and passed this gene onto Queen Mary (along with the Cambridge Emeralds and other treasures). This tiara has been modified to its present lower profile and doesn't appear publicly very often. There are a few images of the Queen Mother wearing it in the 1940s but nothing recently to my knowledge.

8. The Queen Alexandra Russian Kokoshnik Tiara

Oh the Kokoshnik, some may fault me for placing it so low on the list but it is only due to the severity of the form. Queen Alexandra was a Danish princess that became the Queen Consort to King Edward VII when he ascended the throne in 1901. The choice of a distinctly Russian form would seem odd for an English monarch, but Alexandra's sister married the Czar becoming Marie Feodorovna, Empress of Russia. Alexandra greatly admired her sister's Kokoshnik tiara (the form is based on a Russian peasant headdress) and was presented with this one on the occasion of her silver wedding anniversary in 1888. It is a royal favorite to this day and has never been out of circulation.

9. The Cambridge Lover's Knot Tiara

I know I am going to get a lot of flack for putting this highly recognizable tiara so low on the list but I have my reasons. I am sure you recognize this tiara as it was one of the two that are most associated with Diana, Princess of Wales (the other being her family's Spencer Tiara). It was commissioned in 1914 by Queen Mary who, in a nostalgic vein, wanted to recreate the lover's knot tiara that belonged to her grandmother, Princess Augusta of Hesse. Originally each knot was surmounted by an oval pearl to mirror each drop below but by 1935 it was simplified to its present form. Queen Mary passed it to her granddaughter Queen Elizabeth who in turn presented it to Diana upon the occasion of her marriage to Prince Charles. It is the association with Diana that gives me pause. Miss Middleton was already given Diana's stunning 18 carat sapphire engagement ring so to thrust this tiara on her would be overkill. One can imagine the juxtaposed tabloid images of Diana and Kate with "Who wore it best" emblazoned in a 24 point font. Naturally, Diana'a influence will loom over this couple but I am sure Miss Middleton does not want it looming right on top of her head. As a side note I have heard two conflicting stories about its current ownership. One is that it was returned to the Queen when Charles and Diana divorced and the other is that it was passed to William and Harry upon Diana's death. At the time of this post I am not sure, regardless it is a contender despite my reservations.

10. The Duchess of Teck Circlet

I apologize in advance as I was unable to find a better image of this beauty. This lovely diamond circlet bandeau has more commonly been worn as a necklace and descends from Queen Mary's mother, Princess Adelaide.

It is a lovely piece but it is not as significant as the other contenders. It has all the wonderful geometry of the Grand Duchess Vladimir Tiara but none the severity.

11. The Empress Marie Feodorovna Diamond and Sapphire Bandeau

I only included this selection (dead last) as some royal watchers feel that the central sapphire of this sleek art deco bandeau would be smashing with the sapphire engagement ring. While it has great pedigree (it made its way out of revolutionary Russia and again was an item purchased by Queen Mary from Princess Nicholas of Greece in 1921) In my opinion it is more of a fashion piece and lacks enough significance to be the centerpiece of a royal wedding.

There are a few pieces in the Queen's collection that are absolutely off limits because they have been lent on occasion to the Duchess of Cornwall. They are the Queen Mother's Boucheron Honeycomb Tiara and Queen Mary's Delhi Durbar Tiara. There are also Queen Victoria's Oriental Circlet Tiara and Queen Elizabeth's Burmese Tiara but they both recall that inappropriate exclamation....The bride wore RED! Naturally, incorporating blood red rubies on your wedding day would be a no-no. The Queen Mother's Papyrus Tiara is delicate and would fit the bill but was on loan to Princess Margaret for many years and may have become her personal property. Regardless, it was worn by Serena Stanhope when she married Margaret's son, Viscount David Linley, so it is off the table.

Perhaps the Middleton's will opt to purchase their own tiara for kate so that she brings something from her own family into the wedding (as Diana did wearing her family's Spencer tiara). This is not a new concept. The Poltimore Tiara was purchased for Princess Margaret's wedding and a tiara was also procured from Garrard when Fergie married Prince Andrew. Either way the queen would still bestow a tiara from her collection upon Kate as she will one day be queen and it is an overt sign of approval. We must now wait until April 29, 2011 to know for sure.

UPDATE: Ugh, the photoshopping has begun. Here is Kate in the Queen Mother's Scroll, the Cambridge Lover's Knot, the Oriental Circlet, the Fringe, the Grand Duchess Vladimir, and the Strathmore Rose.

UPDATE II: The Mirror is now reporting that Kate Middleton will be offered Princess Diana's Cambridge Lover's Knot Tiara to wear on her wedding day to Prince William. However, it cites no official announcement from Buckingham Palace or any corroborating details. Again we wait...

UPDATE III: A friend over at the Royal Forums brought this other delight to my attention and I must say if it does exist it would be my second choice after the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland...

Wild Card: The Rundell Diamond Tiara

Ok, mea culpa, I knew this beauty existed but was under the impression that it was broken up. It has not been seen in over a century (to my knowledge), but if it survives it is a great choice. The Danish Princess Alexandra was given this masterwork as part of a parure by her groom the future King Edward VII on the occasion of their marriage in 1863. It is wedding tested and beyond regal lets hope Her Majesty digs this deep into the archives...

UPDATE IV: Another Royal Forums revelation...

Wild Card II: The Ladies of England Tiara.

Like the Surrey, I was a bit in the dark about this tiara that appears to have been presented to Queen Mary by the Ladies of England. It too has not been seen publicly in a century therefore one fears it may have been broken up. There is no saying for sure. It recalls the Lover's Knot to some extent (pearls) but is more diminutive in stature.

UPDATE V: The Royal Forums strike again...

Wild Card III: The Nizam of Hyderabad Tiara

This is turning out to be a scholarly dilemma. This delicate rose tiara was crafted by Cartier and formed part of a parure that was given to Queen Elizabeth II on the occasion of her wedding in 1947 by the Nizam of Hyderabad. According to Leslie Feld's The Jewels of Queen Elizabeth II, 1992, this tiara was dismantled and the diamonds used for the creation of the Queen's Burmese Ruby tiara in 1973. However, the three large roses can be used as brooches and have been seen in recent years. Scholar Geoffrey Munn has noted the Hyderabad in his works but does not state that it was "broken-up". Evidently he had unprecedented access to the royal collection so therein lies the rub. If it exists in would be a suitably romantic choice in the same manner as the Strathmore Rose.